Glam. An adjective you wouldn’t use to recount the aesthetic of Italian label Dondup, which exudes minimalism, simplicity and a contemporary vision of femininity. But during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2019 it was thanks to an invasion of sequins and lurex embroideries that Dondup signed a collection that is eccentric yet stays true to their motto of simplicity and originality, conveyed by well dosed accents and details.
We went down the flight of narrow stairs, softly carpeted, that take night clubbers to the opulent dance floor of Venus Club, a venue that gained popularity in Milan in the 80s, located right in the heart of the city. Red velvet tapestry, huge mirrors shaped like awning windows, frames in gold, huge Swarovski chandeliers and the unmissable disco ball.
Welcome to Dondup’s Fall/Winter 2019 Presentation.
Soon after we headed towards the night club’s stage where models posed, danced and engaged with guests showcasing a 20s Great Gatsby inspired collection named Bang Bang, as in the up tempo fusion of jazz instrumentals along with synthpop popular at the time. A track seen in various and famous versions, including 1966 Cher’s written by Sonny Bono.
Courtesy of Chicco Jiang and Tigre
Bold music of the 20s and the exclusive parties and cocktail dresses from that era are then the elements of a collection that saw maxi slip dresses in printed silk in a deep hue of red; red sequins for micro dresses matched with oversized jackets, embodying sartorial mastery of the brand; lurex embroidery, more sequins and appliqués evoking mystical zodiac and Kabbalah themes.
The modern party-glam is also masculine lines: the tailored essence of the classic men’s dinner suit is seen over a three a piece suit, where blazers, overcoats and trousers incorporate original touches charged with femininity.
Dondup’s heritage denim is reinterpreted to come off as party glam as the other pieces of the collection: it features bold applique patches and embellishments and it comes in its blue, bi-stretch black-on-black shades.
Red, gold, silver and black the colours around us and sported by the models, who strolled around, blending in with guests, allowing the garments to be seen in their most natural habitat, the party scene; taking in its lights, flaunting a step or two of hook of a song, chatting to friends whilst sipping a Spritzer.
Face of Dondup’s collection is model, actress and philanthropist and film director Elisa Sednaoui, of Italian, Egyptian and French descent, famous not only for her fashion campaigns but also for the creation of the Sednaoui Foundation, which promotes creative learning and offering after school activities for young learners. Here she wears the oversized zodiac jacket, matched with the black and white stripes high waist slim fit chinos and front ruffle white shirt, a halter neck pleated dress in glittery silver and the three-piece suit.
We shall call Dondup’s the party within the party.